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When compiling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. However, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family utterly astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small shop achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.